Building HMS Wolf – Shipyard’s 1/72 Scale Laser-Cut Card Kit – Part 7

As I mentioned before, apparent progress on the HMS Wolf model has slowed significantly, due to the fact that everything I’m doing now is essentially off the model. I’m now working on various sub-assemblies, and some of these I’m starting to do out of order.

The next parts that actually need to go on the ship are the sweep port covers and the four deck hatches. I painted and then assembled the sweep port cover, which simply requires adding some very thin black paper parts for the hinges. This was rather slow going, as the hinges are very tiny and very delicate. One has to be extremely careful not to lose parts, as there are no spares provided in the kit. I apply Aleene’s Tacky Glue to the sweep port cover with a thin brush, then use the tip of the brush to grab the hinge and to set it in place on the  it on the port cover.

For me, this operation is nearly impossible without some kind of magnifying glasses. I use a set I got off of Amazon that seems to work quite well. They include a selection of lenses, a built-in adjustable LED light, and an optional elastic head band, which is what I use.

The deck hatches I painted a natural wood color and I assembled the hatch coamings, but I didn’t mount them or add the hatches or grating themselves yet, as I’m not sure I want them to be a natural wood color, the way that the instructions call for.


Interior Paint Scheme

I had to do some hunting around, and to the best of my knowledge, it seems that hatch coamings are sometimes natural wood, but often they are red, like the bulwarks, or painted black to make them contrast better against the deck at night. I don’t know how true that reasoning is, but the paint scheme seems to be true.

Vanguard Models prototype for their upcoming HMS Indefatigable model kit. Note that most deck details are red, including gun carriages, but the hatch coamings are black. And, there’s a touch of black on top of the capstan.

Shipyard’s instructions for HMS Wolf call for all items on deck to be painted red, except for the binnacle box, which is not a permanent fixture anyway. But, the gun carriages are a natural color, as are the hatch coamings.

The instructions in the Vanguard Models kit of HMS Alert calls for most everything to be painted red, including gun carriages and hatch coamings.

Now, I’m partial to painting the gun carriages red, though I don’t know about the wheels yet. I’m also partial to painting the hatch coamings as well, though I just haven’t decided what color. With the various bitts and the gallows all being painted red, plus painting the gun carriages red, I’m considering giving the model a little contrast and painting the hatch coamings black.

I’m going to think about it a little further as I don’t have to decide quite yet. There are a lot of sub-assemblies I can work on while I decide.


Blocks, blocks, blocks

For a while, I was contemplating whether to use the supplied laser-cut car blocks, which have to be assembled, or buying pre-made blocks. Chuck Passaro’s Syren Ship Model Company makes excellent blocks. However, this models small scale and size calls for the use of 2mm blocks, which Syren no longer produces.

In addition, the Shipyard laser-cut blocks, while needing to be assembled, actually look quite good,  with a wood-like coloring. Also, they make all the correct block types like long tackle blocks, sometimes called fiddle blocks, and clew garnet blocks, which have a specific look to them as well. These types are hard to find as mass produced model kit blocks. Syren does make some of these types, but not in the sizes needed. So, I’ll be using the kit blocks, which means I’ll be gluing together large quantities of blocks.

Unfortunately, Shipyard does not indicate how many of each type are needed. Certainly, I don’t need to assemble every block that is provided, as these are generic block packages that they sell separately. I don’t expect to need nearly as many as provided. At least I hope not, as there are a LOT of blocks packages provided!

I found that the blocks are best to assemble, one row at a time. I also found that they seem to turn out best if I use Aleene’s Tacky Glue very sparingly. I get just enough time to perfect the alignment of one side, before I deal with the other.

Afterwards, I treat the blocks with a tiny amount of thin CA glue, which soaks right into the cardboard. Afterwards, I can cut them loose, and they are very sturdy.

Sturdy, but extremely tiny!

By the way, this construction method is now also used by Syren Ship Model Company for their specialty blocks, including fiddle blocks, internally strapped blocks, hearts, and all their regular blocks of 7mm or larger. So, this method of block making is not unusual.


Lots of Parts

As I mentioned, I’m making lots of little parts. And, to prove it, here are some of the blocks, deadeyes, and deck furniture pieces I’m collecting.

I’ll continue to make sub assemblies until I decide on what order to add these parts, as many of them may get in the way while trying to add others. So, making the sub-assemblies allows me to move forward in the meantime.


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