Building Woody Joe’s Shinmei-zukuri Shrine – Part III

Last time, I finished step 2 of Woody Joe’s Shinmei-zukuri shrine kit, which dealt with the basic core structure of the shrine. In Step 3, I’ll start work on the roof and some of the outer details.

The Instructions Again

Reviewing the instructions for the next task, parts 9A, 9B and 9C will be needed, noting again that there are two of parts 9A and 9C, but only one 9B. Again, these are laser-cut piece on sheet number 9. This is in a different bag, but again, the bags are clearly marked and so are the individual sheets as you can see below.

Step 3 << Installation of roof internal parts >>

The instruction at this point are too wide to scan in one pass, so the left side of the step is shown above and the right side is shown below.

The first task is to add laser-cut parts 1B and 8C, 8D, 8E, and 8F. These pieces fit at the top of the peaked ends of the shrine. There are two of each of these parts. 8D and 8E are really identical pieces that are mirror images of one another and are interchangeable.

The instructions don’t tell you of any technique to adding these pieces. I put part 1B in place first, followed by part 8C. I felt it was important to put 8C into place first as it defines the center line of the wall, parts 8D and 8E can then be positioned so that they meet directly above the center of 8C.

Now, these pieces and the wall they are glued to are visible, so I made sure to use glue very sparingly here, wiping off any excess first. I then used tweezers to carefully locate the parts into place.

Note these new pieces are not parallel with the edge of the roof. This same type of structure appears on one of the Japanese boats I’ve been studying.

Next to go on were the doors, parts 8F. On the instructions, the Japanese character next to part 8F says: door. The Japanese text in red below this tells us that, the side with the door will be the front side. So, from this point onward, this side with the doors will be referred to as the front side of the shrine building.

The doors themselves are nothing fancy, just simple rectangular pieces of wood. When I added them to the model, I made sure to leave a very small gap between them, rather than pressing them tightly together. The slight gap is to make them stand out more as doors.

Roof Beams

Adding the roof beams may be one of the more time consuming steps in the build, because there are 38 of them to install. Fortunately, Woody Joe has pre-cut the pieces to the proper length, so all that is necessary is to glue them into place.

The part used for the beams is part 16, which is a milled piece 2mm x 2mm x 50mm long, and there are 40 of them. The Japanese text first notes: Extra bars used in Step 10. This refers to the fact that there are 40 provided in the kit, but this step uses only 38 of them. The other two are called for in Step 10.

On that note, I think it’s important to mention, if I didn’t already, that Woody Joe generally provides exactly the number of parts you need to build their kit. There are generally few extra parts. So, be careful not to lose or break any. If you run out of a part, use the scrap laser-cut sheets for material to make anything you need.

That said, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that Woody Joe included 4 extra pieces in the bag. I doubt that you’ll need them unless you manage to lose some. The parts are pre-cut, and all that is required is to glue them into place.

The laser-cut piece that were installed at the roof peak in Step 2 defines the spacing of the roof timbers at the top. At the bottom edge of the roof, it is necessary to maintain that spacing of 4 millimeters. I found that taking a piece of scrap wood and cutting a 4mm wide strip was handy to set the spacing between the roof beams. It sure beat measuring the spacing with a ruler. Of course, all this will be pretty well hidden by the roof anyway, so perhaps it doesn’t matter so much.

The final task of this step is to add the roof support pillars, Part 14, to each end of the building. These are pre-cut dowels 8mm in diameter and 72mm long.

In the next post, I’ll be adding details around the edge of the floor, top and bottom.


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