Building Woody Joe’s Shinmei-zukuri Shrine – Part II

Last time, I started Step I of Woody Joe’s Shinmei-zukuri shrine kit. I tried to cover everything needed to understand the built up to that point. With all the description and explanation, we didn’t get to the end of the first step, so we’ll taking care of that now.

The Instructions Again

Reviewing the instructions for the next task, parts 9A, 9B and 9C will be needed, noting again that there are two of parts 9A and 9C, but only one 9B. Again, these are laser-cut piece on sheet number 9. This is in a different bag, but again, the bags are clearly marked and so are the individual sheets as you can see below.

Parts were carefully cut as instructed earlier, making sure to cut from both sides. This sheet is a tougher plywood, not hinoki, so it doesn’t cut quite as easily. However, you still want to be careful, as these parts are fully visible on the finished model.

This is thicker, harder wood than the other parts, so you’ll notice a bit more char on the edges from the laser cutting process. I’ve found that there’s no need in most of these kits to sand away char. It’s not enough to cause any problems in the build, and there isn’t much stress put on any of the parts of the model, unlike with ship models.

The fit of the parts is very straight forward. Here pieces are symmetrical, so it doesn’t matter which side faces out. Just pick the best looking side for the outer face.

You’ll notice that I didn’t bother cleaning up the tabs where I cut the wood from the sheet, as I don’t believe these areas will be visible, and I don’t think anything glues to these surfaces.

The next thing was to test fit it all together to make sure I wasn’t missing anything in the construction. The instructions comment to pay attention to the alignment of the corners, so now is a good time to figure out if there’s anything tricky about that. I saw nothing scary there.

I again used yellow carpenter’s glue for the assembly and found that these wall pieces glue to the floor, but there’s practically no contact at the corners except at the very top. Since this is all visible wood, I made sure to carefully apply the glue so that none would squeeze out on the outside of the walls. I put a small spot of glue inside at the tops of the corners to help hold things in place.

I found a rubber band helped keep things in place long enough for the glue to dry, but I had to put it around the roof peaks so as not to deform the structure.

The corners of the end pieces (9C) are flush with the outside edge of the sides (9A) as shown in the instructions. The illustration was actually a bit hard to see, so I made sure to look ahead to see if I could see any potential problems, but didn’t spot any.

That’s the end of step 1, finally! It doesn’t really take long, but writing it all up slows things up a lot. But, now, I get to move on to step 2, which involves the installation of the columns that support the structure, and also the addition of the roof’s central support beam.

Step 2 << Installation of round columns >>

The first task here is to add the round support columns. These are the first non laser-cut parts called for in the kit. There are two different sized parts, 12 and 13. The measurements shown are given in millimeters, with the diameter of round parts indicated with the ø symbol. If you’re a ship modeler who’s built any European kits, you’re probably already accustomed to the symbol. So, part 12 is 6mm diameter and 49mm long, and part 13 is 6mm diameter and 50.5mm long.

Now, some manufacturers would give you a couple 6mm dowels and tell you to cut the pieces to length. But, this kit (and most Woody Joe kits) is designed to be easy to build, so the parts all come pre-cut.

One thing to notice now is that the part 12 and part 13 labels are indicated with a clear or white background in the circle containing the part number. These indicate that the part is not laser-cut, but instead they are milled stock. Some of these required a bit of sanding to fit as they weren’t perfectly round, but most were just a snug fit.

You want the posts to be straight, and if you look at the location of the hole in the floor in relation to the wall, you’ll see that the inside edge of the hole is pretty much flush with the inside edge of the wall. So, the inside edge of the post should be the same.

I fit everything into place first and made sure it all looked okay. Then, I went back and glued the parts into place. I only applied glue to the inside edge of the post and just a tiny bit behind the post underneath the floor just before pushing the post all the way into place.

I glued the corner posts only after the glue had set on the other posts. These were more of a tight fit, so I wanted to hold them in using a rubber band. This worked well to hold the corner posts.

The next task is the assembly of the center beam of the roof, which is very straight forward. I won’t bother rehashing things about the parts and assembly that I’ve said before, except as a reminder that these laser-cut parts are very delicate.

Glue parts 7A and 8A together as shown in the instructions, and center them on the notches at the roof peak.

Next, you’ll need to take a close look at laser-cut sheet 1. Look at part 1A – there are two of them back-to-back. If you look VERY closely, there is a fine, laser-scribed line. You’ll need to bevel the straight edge of the piece to this line.

If it doesn’t make sense, carefully cut the pieces out and fit them onto the model. You’ll want those top outer edges flattened down a little.

The tiny inset image in the instructions shows the detail and the text says to cut the corners according to the line. Just use a very light touch so as not to break the pieces.

Glue these into place to complete the step.

Next time, we’ll start building the roof.




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